The Rolex Submariner 16808, a transitional model produced from approximately 1983 to 1989, holds a unique place in the history of the iconic dive watch. Often referred to as a "ghost bezel" Submariner due to its faded, less-defined markings on the bezel insert, the 16808 represents a fascinating period of evolution for Rolex, bridging the gap between the earlier, more tool-watch-focused Submariners and the more modern, polished aesthetic that would follow. However, the watch's allure isn't solely defined by its case and dial; a significant part of its character, and its value, is inextricably linked to its bracelet. This article will delve deep into the intricacies of the Rolex 16808 bracelet, exploring its features, variations, and significance within the context of the watch itself and the broader world of vintage Rolex collecting.
The 16808, unlike its predecessors, didn't just mark a change in the bezel's appearance. It also saw subtle shifts in the case design, the movement, and – crucially for this discussion – the bracelet. While various bracelet types were fitted to the 16808, understanding the most common and sought-after bracelets is key to appreciating the complete package. The most prevalent bracelet associated with the 16808 is the 93150 bracelet with 580 end links.
The 93150 Bracelet: A Closer Look
The 93150 bracelet, frequently paired with the 16808, is a five-piece link Oyster bracelet. This construction, characteristic of many Rolex bracelets, offers a blend of durability and comfort. The five-piece links are carefully crafted, creating a sophisticated and robust feel on the wrist. The individual links are meticulously finished, often showcasing a brushed outer surface with polished center links, a hallmark of Rolex's attention to detail. This contrasts with the fully brushed bracelets found on some earlier Submariners, reflecting the subtle shift towards a more refined aesthetic during the 1980s.
The 580 end links are specifically designed to fit the 16808's case, ensuring a seamless and secure integration. These end links are solid and precisely engineered, mirroring the overall quality of the bracelet itself. The correct end links are crucial for the proper fit and appearance of the bracelet. Improperly fitted end links can lead to gaps between the bracelet and the case, detracting from the watch's overall aesthetic appeal.
Variations and Considerations
While the 93150/580 combination is the most common, collectors should be aware of potential variations. The condition of the bracelet is paramount. Stretching, wear, and damage to the links can significantly impact the value and comfort of the watch. Looking for a bracelet with minimal stretch is crucial, as stretched links can compromise the bracelet's integrity and negatively affect the watch's overall appearance. The presence of original Rolex clasps, specifically the folding clasp with its characteristic Rolex markings, is also a key factor influencing value. These clasps are frequently subjected to wear and tear, and original, undamaged clasps are highly sought after.
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